Problems Caulking Bottom of Siding - Water Damage Tips


Author: gregvancom
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http://www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/repairs/siding/index.html Some home repair methods make sense, even though they shouldn't be used. Caulking the bottom of the siding isn't going to be beneficial to your house and will prevent any water that gets behind the wood siding to roll off of the front of the building paper correctly. The pictures that you will see in the video show some of the water and termite damage, simply because someone caulked the bottom of the siding. Not all of the damage came from the caulked siding, the siding was also installed incorrectly. I've ran into this type of siding damage often during my many travels working on homes and I truly believe that things like these make a lot of sense to intelligent people and I can understand why they do it. If you really want some good advice about siding installation, you should read the manufacturer's installation instructions and follow them. I've seen professional home builders and even carpenters who have worked in the industry for many years do the same thing. If you have any more tips or advice about siding damage, you can post them in the text comment area on this webpage.


Comments

  1. OH NO!!!!!  I JUST DID 1/2 OF THE BACK OF THE HOUSE!!!!  NOW WHAT????
  2. Can I caulk my whole basement around the sill plate from the inside? I see small daylight in some spots and spider's keep coming in.
  3. How do you stop Bees,insects, and mice from getting between the siding where the water is draining out?Thats my problem now.
  4. I had a guy build a garage for me and see that the bottom J channel sits right on top of the block foundation. I can tell already that water is getting in a few places and making the blocks wet. is there anything i can do to keep water from getting in through that seem without compromising the ability of the water to get out from behind the siding?
  5. I needed to hear this. I have built out the exterior wall 1 & 3/4 inches outward to add insulation. So I have a large gap from wall to foundation. I really wanted to seal that area up. But I won't. Any ideas?
  6. on vinyl siding isn't that what the starter strip is for to keep the bottom piece from flopping in the wind?
  7. The bottom edges of my wooden shed have some water damage (swelling, warping). This will be repaired soon. Is there no way to protect the wood and prevent the damage from happening again?
  8. One year ago we purchased a home built in 1980. It is build on slab, on grade, and even slightly under grade in some areas. The entire home sits at least 1 inch inside the edge of the slab, so of course the siding cannot possibly extend 1 inch downward of the slab edge.
    Following a pressure tank leak/flood we removed damaged drywall in a bedroom and found additional sources of water leaking from the exterior. All drywall on the exterior of that room had large amounts of black mold (it looked like they shimmed the drywall with drywall and left the shims in place leaving no gap between drywall and slab) The insulation was all damaged and the siding appears to be in beginning stages of rot. All flooring in our downstairs has been removed and we can now visibly see water leaks around the perimeter of the home during wet periods. We also found there is no moisture barrier under the wood siding.

    This was just discovered in the last week, I'd been researching how to fix this and found your video.
    Are there ways to correct a home that is built smaller than the slab it sits on? There is currently "Z metal" shoddily caulked onto the exterior, with the addition of many, many nails attaching it. It extends maybe 4 inches up the siding, over the slab edge and about 1/2 inch down the slab edge.
    I'm sure we need to replace the damaged siding, if not re-side the entire home and install a moisture barrier. We are getting ready to re-grade the property to help redirect the standing water. We live in Alaska and have maybe a month to correct this, we need to get insulation back in the walls before winter. Can anyone please offer advice?
  9. Good stuff. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos.
  10. good point
  11. If the home wasn't built with a moisture barrier, then I would install it in the areas you have exposed and put the z flashing where you can also. Simply run the moisture barrier (Tyvek or building paper) at least 1 inch above the break line behind the existing T-1 11. There really isn't anything you can do to protect the rest of the building, unless you remove all of the siding and install the new moisture barrier.
  12. I'm installing a 6" house wrap / belly band around one side of my house where I have T1-11 rotting on the bottom 4 inches. I don't have a moisture barrier under the siding and when I remove the bottom 6" I see my studs and subflooring. I want to put 7 inches of moisture barrier up it and put z flashing with my belly band. My concern is when water runs down the inside of the wall how do I know which side of the flashing it will hit? any way to get it to the outside?
  13. I have ants that decided to have a parade route which travels under my siding (where the siding meets the concrete slab).  I was thinking of caulking it until I saw your video. THANKS!!  But how do I prevent the ants from going under my siding (and then God only knows where else!)? I want to prevent the problem next spring, not spend all summer fighting it like I did this year. :/
  14. I have a tiled patio with an over hang type roof. The tiled floor is level with the ground. The ground has pea gravel level with the tile. If I go 1 inch below the tile I will be in the ground or pea gravel. Is that alright for T1-11's?

    Thank you in advance!
  15. Good video, I have problems with mice accessing the house from underneath the siding.  I wanted to seal it off, but now I don't know what to do!  Can I send you some pictures so you can give me some ideas??
  16. This is so true, I had the bottom of my siding rot because it was caulked.
  17. never bottom lap? I understand there needs to be a location for moisture to escape, but we also see a lot of insect and moisture wicking up that bottom lap. We have actually tarred the bottom lap of T1-11 because it was the 3rd time replaced in last decade from moisture, and we also found termites on one side (actually 2 locations). These are older homes most of the time, all in Florida where the cool side is the interior wall most all of the year, and therefor condensation ends up wanting to evacuate on inner side
  18. Greg (or whoever) do you have thoughts about caulking between siding boards?  I have a rustic wood siding and have heard a pretty much even split between whether or not to caulk.   Some will say it prevents the house to 'breathe' and i figure that mostly means allow airflow and accelerate evaporation. i have some walls that go through large changes in temperature and moisture though and see the remnants of old caulk there with cracks so i know at least that job didn't hold up too well.  
  19. I don't know if I can answer that question, I can tell you the reason for using building paper is to produce a water resistant barrier. If the felt your referring to is producing a water resistant barrier, then you wouldn't need to use any type of building paper. I'm not familiar with that type of construction and if you could, contact a contractor in your area, for more information. Don't be afraid to call them, because some of them are willing to provide you with free advice and assistance.
  20. Im thinking of re siding my home. It was built in 1960 and has It has 12 inch vertical siding with wood strips covering the joints. I pulled a wood strip up and noticed the paneling underneath is a felt board. Do I need to wrap the house since it has the felt board on it? Fortunately the exterior is half brick all the way around, so there is not a lot to side. About 1100 sq ft.